3. history of fashion

3.3. origin of fashion

The "origin of fashion" is a fascinating question because it has two distinct interpretations:

  1. The origin of clothing itself (prehistoric times): Why did humans start covering their bodies?

  2. The origin of fashion as a concept of changing styles and trends (much later, primarily in the West).

Let's explore both:

1. The Origin of Clothing (Prehistoric Era)

The very first "clothing" was not about fashion in the modern sense, but about fundamental human needs. Anthropologists and historians propose several theories for why early humans began to cover their bodies:

  • Protection (The Necessity Theory): This is the most widely accepted theory. As humans migrated out of warmer climates (like Africa) into colder regions, they needed protection from the elements – cold, rain, wind, and even intense sun. Animal skins, furs, leaves, and bark were the most readily available materials. Evidence suggests that early humans, possibly Neanderthals, began wearing clothes around 170,000 to 40,000 years ago, coinciding with periods of colder climates. The discovery of bone needles dating back to 40,000 years ago indicates early forms of sewing, allowing for more fitted and effective garments.

  • Modesty Theory: This theory suggests that clothing arose from a desire to cover certain body parts, perhaps due to evolving social norms, shame, or a sense of propriety. The biblical story of Adam and Eve, for instance, links clothing to the covering of nakedness after gaining knowledge.

  • Immodesty/Attraction Theory: Counter to the modesty theory, some argue that clothing was initially used to draw attention to certain body parts, or to enhance attractiveness and signal fertility or status to potential mates. Adornments like shells, beads, and pigments on the body could have evolved into clothing for this purpose.

  • Adornment/Decoration Theory: Humans have an innate desire for self-expression and decoration. Early humans used paint, tattoos, and natural objects for adornment. Clothing could have evolved as another canvas for this desire, signifying group identity, achievements, or aesthetic preferences.

  • Status/Social Display Theory: As societies became more complex, clothing became a way to differentiate individuals based on status, role, or wealth within a group. More elaborate or rare materials could signify leadership, spiritual power, or hunting prowess.

It's likely that a combination of these factors contributed to the origin of clothing, with protection being the primary driver in colder environments, and social/symbolic functions developing as societies evolved.

2. The Origin of "Fashion" (Changing Styles and Trends)

While clothing has existed for millennia, the concept of "fashion" – as a system of continually changing styles that are widely adopted and then discarded for new ones – is a more recent phenomenon, primarily emerging in Europe.

  • Pre-14th Century: Before the late Middle Ages, clothing styles remained relatively static for long periods, sometimes centuries. Changes were slow and largely influenced by practical needs, available materials, or major historical events (like invasions or religious shifts). Regional variations existed, but a rapid, widespread adoption and rejection of styles was not common.

  • The "Birth" of Western Fashion (Mid-14th Century Europe): Many historians, including James Laver and Fernand Braudel, pinpoint the mid-14th century in Europe as the beginning of what we recognize as "fashion." Several factors contributed to this:

    • Increased Wealth and Trade: The growth of trade routes and urban centers led to greater wealth and access to new, luxurious fabrics and materials from different regions.

    • Social Mobility (Limited but Present): While rigid social hierarchies still existed, there was a degree of upward mobility that encouraged people to use dress to signal their aspirations and status.

    • Competitive Display: European courts and aristocracies engaged in competitive display, constantly seeking new and more extravagant ways to differentiate themselves through dress. This created a demand for novelty.

    • The Rise of Tailoring: Advances in tailoring techniques allowed for more fitted and sculpted garments, offering greater possibilities for stylistic variation than simple draping.

    • Spread of Ideas: Early forms of fashion plates and drawings, as well as the movement of people and goods, helped to disseminate new styles more rapidly.

  • The Role of the Designer (19th Century): While dressmakers and tailors existed for centuries, the modern concept of the "fashion designer" who dictates trends truly began in the mid-19th century with Charles Frederick Worth. Worth, an English designer who established his haute couture house in Paris in 1858, revolutionized the industry by:

    • Creating seasonal collections.

    • Presenting garments on live models (the precursor to fashion shows).

    • Sewing his label into his creations.

    • Clients sought out his designs, rather than just commissioning specific garments, making him the first true fashion arbiter.

From Worth onward, fashion became an industry driven by creativity, commercialization, and a constant thirst for the "new." The Industrial Revolution further accelerated this by making mass production possible, democratizing fashion to some extent, and leading to the rapid cycle of trends we see today

In summary, while clothing originated from practical needs in prehistoric times, "fashion" as a dynamic system of constantly changing styles and trends can be traced to the competitive display and social signaling among the European elite in the late Middle Ages, fully blossoming with the establishment of couture houses in the 19th century.